Many visitors to Budapest encounter Liberty Square (Szabadság tér) – especially if they are avid walkers. After all, Liberty Square is on the way from city center to the magnificent Hungarian Parliament building.
Liberty Square is a public park. The trees are full, the border buildings are grand. Hungarian National Bank and the former Hungarian Stock Exchange flank one side as symbols to free capitalism. The US Embassy is located on the opposite side of the square.
To me, Liberty square was a place of contrast. A place of contradictions. A place that could be called the Square of Juxtaposition. Let me make my case.
Monument of German Occupation
Hungary initially was one of the pro-Hitler Axis Powers. Hungarian military invaded Yugoslavia and massacred many. In 1944, Germans moved to occupy Hungary because Hitler felt betrayed by Hungarian leaders. From that point, Hungarian Jews and Roma were sent to concentration camps. In front of the monument is a collection of small memorials to Hungarian Holocaust victims. Yet, no mention of the Hungarian involvement in the atrocities.
Harry Bandholtz Statue
Austria-Hungary and Germany were WW1 allies. Which means the Hungarians lost the war. Liberty Park has a statue to Harry Bandholtz, a US Army general (WW1). It seems a band of Romanians wanted to loot the Hungarian National Museum, but Bandholtz successfully protected the museum – therefore a statue in this honor.
Embed from Getty Images
Memorial to Fallen Soviet Soldiers
The Soviets erected a memorial the far end of Liberty Square to honor their role in liberating Hungary from the Nazis and in memorial to the Soviet soldiers who lost their lives in the efforts. Of course, the Soviets decided to stay for over 40 years – and the US Embassy is nearby.
Ronald Reagan Statue
Very near to the Soviet Memorial stands a statue of Ronald Reagan. Interestingly, the current Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orbán is responsible for the statue. However, Orbán is far to the right, and is moving Hungary closer to Putin’s Russia – and I just don’t think Ronald Reagan would be endorsing Putin.
Imre Nagy Memorial
Imre Nagy (HM-reh nodge) was a communist, but he sought to ease Stalinist policies. As he rose in leadership, he withdrew Hungary from the Warsaw Pact with hopes of bridging Eastern Communism with Western Capitalism. This memorial has Nagy on the bridging facing the Parliament Building. Interestingly, Prime Minister Orbán had the statue removed in late December. Here’s a related read.
Yes, Budapest’s Liberty Square is interesting, complicated, and full of contradictions.
I think your last line/comment coincides with the little I know of Budapest’s history and current governmental/political structure. I’m fascinated with the statue of Reagan and find it surprising. The little memorials to the Holocaust victims touches me even in a photo. I can imagine the impact it must have when you’re right there. I enjoyed the photos and history lesson, Frank!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Debra,
The Reagan statue surprised me. Given the current leader in Hungary, I wouldn’t be surprised if it did suddenly vanished. This Holocaust memorial didn’t get to me because of was already into the contradictions in the place. Besides, we were in Auschwitz 2 days earlier. However, their is another memorial that is subtle on sight, but the story is difficult – so it deserves it’s own post.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Contradictions? You ain’t kidding! I had no idea as far as the Reagan statue is concerned. Wow.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Marc,
This place had so many contradictions, I wonder how many I missed!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Fascinating just the same.
LikeLiked by 2 people
That is a most interesting Liberty Square! Contradictions is putting it mildly…
LikeLiked by 2 people
Dale,
Many tourists visit here because it is on the way to the glorious Parliament building. Just strolling through, they may not notice. Fortunately, we had a guide.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I can well imagine. There are places I’ve been discovering in Montreal that I used to just pass by…
LikeLiked by 2 people
OK, you did it! – Your photos and comments boosted my interest in visiting Budapest to see the interesting, complicated, and full of contradictions stuff you talk about. Any hotel recommendations? My favorite kind of travel continues to be finding a great historical city, parking myself in a moderately priced hotel near public transportation until my money runs out, eating food the locals like, and exploring on foot all the places Rick Steves says to go.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Tim,
Glad this enhances your interest in Budapest. Regarding hotels, keep in mind that the tour arranged the hotels – so I have no comparison. However, we enjoyed our hotel because 1) it was nice, but not extravagant; 2) It was close to a subway stop; 3) there were walkable sites nearby.
The hotel was Mamaison Hotel Andrassy Budapest on Andrassy Ut (street/avenue/whatever)
LikeLike
Between $$ and $$$, close to a metro station, good walkability, the Mamaison Hotel sounds like my kind of place!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Amazing, Frank. Shows too the complexity of choosing one’s friends during WWII
LikeLiked by 2 people
John,
The official Hungarian role in WW2 is not cut-and-dried .. it’s complex. Bottom line is the supported the Nazis, then Hitler felt they double-crossed him.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks. I can hear the inner discussion. “I told you not to trust that goose stepping Bavarian.”
LikeLiked by 1 person
Interesting, complicated, and full of contradictions…talk about an understatement. Despite my Germany background, I confess I’m woefully ignorant of Eastern European countries’ role during WW2. Thank you for providing some context from very complicated times.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Monika,
Glad you found some enlightenment in this twisted post. 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
Complicated indeed! One could be exposed to so much history there.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Jo,
My mind was spinning when I left this place – but once the fog cleared, I knew I had to post it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It certainly is full of contradictions. You learn so much when you are with a guide compared to visiting on your own.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Karen,
Oh yes – much of this came from the guide … and to think we travel so much without a guide at the expense of missing countless and significant information.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m pretty sure that Reagan wouldn’t have endorsed Putin. In fact, I think it’s more likely than not Reagan wouldn’t have endorsed Trump.
LikeLiked by 1 person
X,
Reagan and Putin wouldn’t have been buddies .. no way … and Trump isn’t even close to the Reagan mold.
LikeLike
I do agree about your last line in the post. I was there last summer while in Europe myself. The Reagan one caught my eye immediately upon seeing it, and I’ve often thought about why it’s really there(and have had number of people ask me when I posted a pic of me with it). I went alone without a guide, so that does make a bit of difference. My hotel was on a river boat and I went over to see the Parliament area on my second day, and stumbled across the majority of Liberty Square. However, it takes nothing away from me as far as my time in the city. I’ll post my guide and review of it at a later date. Thanks for sharing!
LikeLiked by 2 people
David,
Thanks for sharing. So you well know the magnificent side of Budapest. Did you take a river cruise at night? The city shines in the dark. In case you didn’t see this, https://afrankangle.wordpress.com/2018/12/11/on-budapest-hungary/
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh yeah, Budapest is wonderful! I didn’t take a river cruise, but went to Fisherman’s Bastion for scenic views at day and night, so I did see the city shine. I did a lot in Budapest in two days, and can’t wait to post about it.
LikeLike
The contradictions in Liberty Square seem parallel to many more political contradictions in the world. They should erect a statue to juxtaposed oxymorons. Morons being key to the same, and the opposite.
I’ve got to stop, now, or I’ll rant until dawn.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Resa,
Heck, the contradictions are not only now or in the 2oth century, the history of humanity is probably loaded with them! But this place was loaded with them!!!
LikeLiked by 2 people
I agree with you on the point that; time has not healed the contradictory minds and hearts, ergo the actions of humankind.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Wonderful post. The juxtaposition of time and images is impressive. Thanks.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Patti,
Glad you enjoyed this post of oddities.
LikeLike
Fascinating, Frank. Thanks for sharing. It is contradictory–what has the word “liberty” meant at different times and different regimes. The monument to the Holocaust. . .resonates.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Merril,
Liberty Square is contradictory place. Then again, you point is well taken – different meanings to different people at different times.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pingback: On Trip Tidbits: More Budapest – A Frank Angle
Pingback: On Cruising the River Danube: Part 2 of 4 – A Frank Angle