Trieste – TREE est in English, TREE ess te in Italian, Trst (Trist) in Croatian and Slovenian.
I was 11 years old for my last trip to Trieste (1964). Because of the relative closeness of Trieste, Italy to where our Rick Steves ended (Lake Bled, Slovenia), we decided to extend our vacation with a side trip to the city of my birth.
Given its location on the Adriatic Sea’s Gulf of Trieste, Trieste has a storied history. Looking at it on a map should be head-scratching to many because it seems Slovenia would be a more natural fit.
Trieste’s beginning is rooted to the Romans in the second century BC.
After being ruled by Charlemagne then the Venetians – who built local icon sites San Giusto Castle and Cathedral.
Trieste became part of the Habsburg Monarchy and eventually the main port for Austria-Hungary (1382-1918). Many of the majestic buildings of today were built during this prosperous time.
With Italy being on the winning side of WW1 and Austria-Hungary being dismantled, Trieste became part of Italy in 1915 – although numerous Slovenes lived there at the time. Italy also annexed part of Slovenia, then lost it in WW2.
TIto’s Yugoslavia wanted Trieste as WW2 was ending. On 5 March 1946, Winston Churchill referenced Trieste in his famous Iron Curtain speech: “From Stettin in the Baltic to Trieste in the Adriatic, an iron curtain has descended across the Continent.”
Because Trieste was pivotal, the UN established it as an independent free territory (1947) that was protected by American and British forces. Enter my dad, a member of the US Army – where he met my mother who went to Trieste from northern Tuscany to work. They married and I was born there. We a few months after I was born, and then a year later (1954), Trieste became part of Italy.
With a population today of just over 200,000, Trieste proudly displays its past. Leading back to its Austria-Hungary days, Trieste is Italy’s City of Coffee. There are hundreds of ways to serve coffee in Trieste – and not a Starbuck’s to be found.
Being on the sea, Triestines love sailing – and a weeklong, large regatta festival (Barcolana) just started. The flute orchestra was part of the festivities.
I love the way the city is built on the hillside sloping the sea – and then in the city, Piazza Unità d’Italia opens to the sea. (Note: Europe’s largest square facing the sea)
Even though I recalled some of the sites but not remember where I was born or baptized, it was fun to return to my birthplace. After all, it is part of me. Plus it was a chance to share it with my wife, who didn’t know what to expect.
Hope you’ve enjoyed my trip to Trieste – a special place for me. I invite you to watch the video (with a fitting song) below and visit a post by a reader here, visit Debra @ Bagni di Lucca and Beyond. Also, here’s a past-post of mine about Trieste.
Next Stop: Venice
Wonderful, wonderful – I’m so glad I grabbed a few minutes to pop in today Frank. The video is fabulous too.
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Pauline,
I’m also happy the time window opened allowing you to pop in today. Glad you enjoyed the video. For me, it’s the right combo of images and song choice!
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The best and most expensive coffee brand in Italy is from Trieste: Illy. I’ve recently been there and I remember so many charming coffee shops spread everywhere. Joyce lived in Trieste for a while and loved it.
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Stefy,
Thanks for verifying the importance of coffee to Trieste. Cheers to your lovely visit.
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Good morning, Frank! I think I mentioned before that my father’s father sailed out of Trieste when his family immigrated to America. He was a little boy, and he sailed with his mother and sister. His father was already here. They came from Kiev, so Trieste would have just been a stop on their journey, and it was still part of the Austria-Hungarian Empire. I remember him telling me that ship was stuck in the harbor for a while. In any case, Trieste is lovely. I’m glad you got to revisit the city of your birth. I didn’t know about the coffee there. I love Italian coffee, and it was good everywhere, so it must be exceptional in Trieste! 🙂
Oh–in the paragraph about the Iron Curtain speech, I think you meant to write Churchill referenced in the sentence after Tito.
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Merril,
I remember that about your grandfather … and actually thought of that as I was there.
Trieste was into coffee long before it became a craze in Seattle. 🙂 Sadly, I’m don’t drink coffee very often.
Thanks about Iron Curtain note. How and the heck I left Churchill out of the text is beyond me … but it was in my head! 😉 … Nonetheless, I clarified … so many thanks!
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I feel special that you remember that about my grandfather, Frank!
Sad about the coffee.
I was happy to help. 😉
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Let’s face it … My connections to Trieste through others here aren’t that many! I think you flashed into my mind at the Old Port area.
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Thank you Frank for the introduction to your city of birth. Europe’s history and its shifting borders makes for interesting places and Trieste is a great example.
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Yahooey,
Brilliant point about Europe’s history of shifting borders. I recall (on the trip) learning about a time when Poland was gone by being subdivided to become part of other countries. Meanwhile, that little extension of Italy toward Trieste is a bit odd to the eye.
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Some fascinating history in your post today, about Trieste and about you. I must go there someday when you begin your next business venture – AFRANKANGLE Tours, Inc.
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Tim,
Now that’s funny … but my involvement through these posts of giving others ideas may be about as good as I can do. Meanwhile, glad you enjoyed my little jaunt to this interesting city at the top of the Adriatic.
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What a wonderful tour this was! I had to come earlier than I expected to, after your mention last night. You ain’t kidding when you talk about iconic sites! I love the way these European cities blend the old with the new.
And speaking of blending, of COURSE there are thousands of ways to make coffee that are not spelled Starbucks. That stuff ain’t coffee! Not real coffee anyways . . .
Love your ‘home town’ tour!
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Marc,
Ah ha … you must be a coffee drinker – and one that I anticipate would enjoy a coffee journey across this city!
You hit one of the reasons why I like Europe so much – not only the blending of the old and the new – but also how they incorporate the old by reusing it (as opposed to our method of letting buildings fall apart, which then leads to the bulldozer. BTW – did you know I was Italian born?
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You could say that, you could definitely say that . . .
Yes, it is a much more aesthetic way, not to mention sensible, way of doing business, ain’t it?
And no, I don’t think I did know that! Welcome to the party, paisan!
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Location. location, location. All about a spot being critical. Enjoyed the history – and your connections to there. Onward to the New Year! May yours be bright and full of adventures (and posts for us HAHA)
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Mouse,
Interesting point about location – which must also be true about its role in history! Onward to 2019 ,,. cheers!
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Enjoyed the visit even tho I don’t have the java script to see more pictures. Someday I hope to get over to that part of the world.
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Bumba,
For a small city, Trieste has its share of grandness – so I hope you got to see enough of the pics to get that. Could you watch the video? (I like it a lot!) … My future visits bring you to Trieste!
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I only saw a few of the photos. Like I say I’d love to get over to the Adriatic.
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Excellent, Frank. Thank you for the tour.
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John,
Thanks for walking along this historic city.
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What a great way to end your tour! So interesting the border shifting and so much interesting history.
Thank you so much for taking us along,
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Dale,
Definitely interesting … but I wondered why Rick Steves didn’t include it. Well, it’s all about time. But the tour bus went on the back side of the mountain, and I’m sure I got a glimpse of Trieste below. As for the border – very strange – but with an important history. I image most people don’t realize this little strip of Italy.
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Ah well.. who knows why Steves skipped it? But glad you didn’t!
I had heard the name but the history is most interesting.
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Then again, you can’t stop everywhere.
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True dat.
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Nonetheless, I got the chance to return. Being so close at the end of the tour, I couldn’t resist.
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It would have been nuts for you to skip it, being so close…
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Yep!
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🍷🍷
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What a wondrous trip through history–and into your childhood. Thanks for letting us tag along. Happy New Year!
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Patti,
I left there at the young age of 3 months, but I remember more from a visit at age 11 (which was my last visit) – so it was a place I wanted to revisit. On the flip side, my wife didn’t know what to expect. Thanks for tagging along. 🙂
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It looks like a wonderful city, Frank. Of course it would have to be, wouldn’t it? It’s the city of your birth. 🙂
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Robin,
Thanks for walking along. I was 11 the last time there, so it was fun to revisit.
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A Starbuck’s free zone?! Fabulous! Great photos, Frank…I’ve always believed everyone else could have the universe so long as I got Italy. 🇮🇹
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Monika,
Great point … but I’m not going to give up my share!
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Well, well, that was a super interesting post. The history, not just of Trieste, but of you, as well, is a great journey. I did know you were Italian born, but the story is now part of the knowledge.
I love history, and it’s true that man should learn from it, but he seems doomed to repeat it in slightly different ways.
I certainly know Illy coffee. There are several tins being reused for other things gracing my cupboard’s shelves.
Great shots, and I’m happy for you that you made the side trip!!!!
I don’t drink Starbucks, anymore. Haven’t for years. Although, as far as it’s employee practices go, it sounds like a decent corp to work for.
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Resa,
Trieste’s history is definitely interesting – and (as one pic shows) there is a separatist movement still today … but I don’t know how strong it is. Technically, I would be Triestine born – not Italian – because of the time period – so legally after the transfer, I don’t know. Even Google has a hard time finding the answer! (See my answer to Betsy below to add to the complexity).
Although you pass on Starbucks these days, I’m thinking you still enjoy coffee – so Trieste would be for you!
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How interesting. So when you were born, Trieste was its own territory. That means you’re Triestian, or something? Not technically Italian? Or…?
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Betsy,
First of all, Triestines would be correct (well, I think). The technicalities behind my citizenship are complex. The initial UN agreement forming the Free Territory (FFT) clearly mentioned citizenship … but both agreements afterwards don’t seem to. I know crazy … then through in my dad (a US soldier, but with Italian parents) … and my mother (an Italian citizen) … and me (assumingly) naturalized at birth … oh boy … a mess. I’ll discover more if I actually apply for dual citizenship.
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Wow. So you don’t know what you are! 🙂
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That’s a fair assessment.
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Haha. 🙂
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Trieste is a beauty, Frank. I am always fascinated with the history and reminders of the Roman civilization. I would enjoy walking among the sites you’ve shared. I can imagine this was a very meaningful stop in your trip, and a delight for you and your wife to share the city together!
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Debra,
This city has many layers – then again, that’s probably true for all European cities. You would love the history here because so much of it is in the past 150 years. You mentioned the Roman Theater. Many times this sites are more isolated, but not this one! It’s location/surroundings would surprise you.
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Loved hearing about the history and the photos are, once again, beautiful. Loved the come back sign. Interesting..:)
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